who had been at the camp for more than a year (Magra, 2021). Pope Francis also met with the Migration and Asylum Minister, the Prime Minister, the leader of the main opposition party and the Archbishop of Athens, who all made special reference to his initiatives on the migration and refugee crisis, noting that his presence testified to the importance of the problems on the island. ‘The Pope's visit had a very positive result, because it highlighted the important and positive way in which our country is handling the migration - refugee issue,’ foreign minister, Nikos Dendias, said in a statement (amna.gr, 2021). Since 2015, when Lesvos became the main locus of irregular arrivals to the EU, the island has become a ‘theme park’ (Sarantidis, 2021: 199) for journalists, researchers, NGO staff visiting the island, state and EU officials and thousands of volunteers, who wanted to be part of the humanitarian response to the disaster unfolding before their eyes. By January 2016, the local authorities in Lesvos reported that over 80 nongovernmental organizations (NGOs) were running operations throughout the island, aided by several thousand volunteers (Franck, 2018; see also Nianias, 2016). Even celebrities, such as Angelina Jolie, Susan Sarandon, Mandy Patinkin, and a group of actors form the popular series ‘Game of Thrones’ visited the island hoping to bring attention to what was happening in that corner of the world (Galanis, 2018). Tons of ink has been spent on Moria, the island’s refugee camp and the situation refugees have to endure inside it6 (Are you Syrious?, n.d.; BBC news, 2018; Dimitriadi, 2017; Human Rights Watch, 2018; 2019; McElvaney, 2018; Lucas et al., 2018; Medicins Sans Frontieres, 2018a; 2018b; 2018c; 2018d; National Geographic, 2018; Pallister-Wilkins, 2020; Rozakou, 2017a; Shamshiri, 2020; Tazzioli, 2018; Vradis, et al., 2019).7 While undeniably Lesvos and the camps have been deeply traumatising for all those affected, a separate building within the Moria camp was hidden away from the areas where celebrities flocked, with cameras in tow, and practitioners and volunteers visited every day. The pre-removal detention centre inside the Moria camp was the blind spot in the mediatised ‘border spectacle’ (De Genova, 2013) full of suffering, misery, and death of Indicative of the amount of information produced about Moria is that the Greek Council for Refugees, together with Oxfam produce a bimonthly bulletin on the situation on site. For their latest update see (GCR & Oxfam, 2021). 7 Here, I am not trying to evaluate the knowledge produced. As Rozakou (2019) claims despite the abundance of knowledge, access to Moria for a lot of those writing about it has been partial, so ‘the knowledge produced around the Moria camp enhances its opacity instead of eradicating it’ (Rozakou, 2019: 79). However, I want to show the sheer plethora of accounts about a particular site. 6 15